Got $$$... then yes... I think they start at $250 for a base model.
(and I was using the original name for the design, my bad)
Knife sharpening techniques for all
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Got $$$... then yes... I think they start at $250 for a base model.
(and I was using the original name for the design, my bad)
policemedic
Verified SWAT
I guess the value is determined by how easy it is to use, how many knives you have and how frequently you sharpen them.
Just eyeballed the wicked edge..... Not to take anything away from it, but it looks like a baseplate mounted variation on the Lansky-esque style of sharpening. That thing is really tempting, given how stout the guide rods the stones ride on are, as well as how the anchoring system for maintaining angle is.
Angle controlled sharpening using a Lansky, or better Gatco, or finally the Wicked Edge system, is by far one of the easiest sharpening techniques there is. I personally have only used the Gatco and Lansky systems, and prefer the Gatco due to a heavier guide rod (out of better metal, too) that doesn't deflect nor bend as much as the Lansky which is neigh potmetal. The stones on the Gatco are also wider than the Lansky, and the overall kit does allow rapid and relatively accurate sharpening, all things said and done.
I'll be honest, looking at the Wicked Edge reminded me of one of many accidents, and the feel of an edge parting flesh. Stupid sharp has it's disadvantages, but when you know that a knife will cut anything.... you treat it with the respect it deserves, instead of being used to a variable "one slice, one saw, or one hack?" with a modicum of knives both yours and property of others. That might be next month's shiny, if I don't do other things. We'll see...
Angle controlled sharpening using a Lansky, or better Gatco, or finally the Wicked Edge system, is by far one of the easiest sharpening techniques there is. I personally have only used the Gatco and Lansky systems, and prefer the Gatco due to a heavier guide rod (out of better metal, too) that doesn't deflect nor bend as much as the Lansky which is neigh potmetal. The stones on the Gatco are also wider than the Lansky, and the overall kit does allow rapid and relatively accurate sharpening, all things said and done.
I'll be honest, looking at the Wicked Edge reminded me of one of many accidents, and the feel of an edge parting flesh. Stupid sharp has it's disadvantages, but when you know that a knife will cut anything.... you treat it with the respect it deserves, instead of being used to a variable "one slice, one saw, or one hack?" with a modicum of knives both yours and property of others. That might be next month's shiny, if I don't do other things. We'll see...
@Ranger Psych and @policemedic - I have a lot of knives, but I like to sharpen knives, it's therapeutic for me. Especially when I've got a friend's knife that has been damaged, like a tip broken off where the entire tip has to be reshaped by hand, or somebody found a rock with the edge and it has a rather significant gouge in it.
I would think about a wicked Edge if I really started a knife sharpening business ...
I would think about a wicked Edge if I really started a knife sharpening business ...
Kettenhund
Member
Oh this segment is awesome!! I so need to learn how to sharpen the knives I have. I own a Lansky and I've swapped out many of the stones for diamond stones. I just need how to use the damn thing properly.
I'll show my knives and you'll know instantly which ones I've attempted to sharpen. Where is the "bang head" emoticon when you need it?? LOL.
They are all Strider blades. The folder is my duty knife and I carry it everyday, pretty much. The Tanto is a discontinued modle and I wear it attached to my vest while kayaking. I've beet the crud out of that knife and it comes back looking for more. The large fixed knife is in my BOB. I've not touched that edge, thankfully.
I'll show my knives and you'll know instantly which ones I've attempted to sharpen. Where is the "bang head" emoticon when you need it?? LOL.
They are all Strider blades. The folder is my duty knife and I carry it everyday, pretty much. The Tanto is a discontinued modle and I wear it attached to my vest while kayaking. I've beet the crud out of that knife and it comes back looking for more. The large fixed knife is in my BOB. I've not touched that edge, thankfully.
Red Flag 1
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We are going to start discussing blade shapes, and there are different techniques needed for sharpening some of them.
We will start with an easy to sharpen edge profile: the Wharncliffe or Sheepsfoot. (essentially the same edge profile)
Question to the gallery: Why would this be an "easy" to sharpen design?
We will start with an easy to sharpen edge profile: the Wharncliffe or Sheepsfoot. (essentially the same edge profile)
Question to the gallery: Why would this be an "easy" to sharpen design?
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Full disclosure, I had to Google what a Wharncliffe looks like.
With that out of the way, I would think this type of blade would be considered 'easy' to sharpen because it is a straight flat edge with no noticeable curves. The pics that I looked at reminded me somewhat of a straight razor used for shaving. You should be able to maneuver the blade in one direction without losing your angle.
Kettenhund
Member
I'm guessing that both have no radius and all the work is done perpendicular to the straight edge? I know I've struggled with sharpening at the radius. For me and the Lansky sharpener, the longer the blade the tougher it has been to get the radius to look consistent.
FAIL. there is a pic on page 1 of this thread.
As to the reasoning... pretty good, for both you and @Kettenhund - but the motion for sharpening is not in straight lines, anybody want to guess why?
pardus
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Hmm, my instinct was to say because the surface of the stone is not smooth and a straight line would/could cause lines/grooves/an uneven/serrated surface on the blade, but I'm not sure if that's right or not. :-/
I would guess it has something to do with grain structures and carbides mentioned earlier as well as minimizing the burr.
The kiwi is the first winner!
An almost circular motion reduces introducing 'sharpening lines' into the edge, partially by spreading the slurry evenly on the sharpening media - the slurry is the 'glop' of oil/water + cut steel + reduced sharpening media that ends up actually evening the medial to the 'rated' grit... because sharpening media are 'gritted' by the median grain size... this is mostly overcome in the artificial stones by sizing the grit much more closely- you still have the mastic which is a much smaller grit, and the steel shavings which should be pretty close to the grit size.
People think that the burr is a bad thing... when you are finished - yes, but raising the burr (also known as the 'wire edge') is a very important part of the sharpening process.
Here are older pics of what I practice on, not including the kitchen knives:
Okay... lifting agents.... I believe in them, I tend to use food grade mineral oil, but have been known under advisement by Wayne Goddard, Bill Harsey, Ken Onion, Ken Brock, Gary Melton (who admits he is not great at sharpening), Gene Lake, and others (Yeah, I've been to a few too many knife shows for most people):
Simple Green
WD40
Used Motor Oil
Olive Oil
Vegetable oil
melted Crisco
Specialty honing oils of various flavors/manufacturers
As you can see it's basically dealer's choice... something that will lift and suspend the cut steel is what is important.
NEVER use anything but water on a Japanese water stone, ever... except when cleaning... a tiny amount of mild detergent, and possibly a nagura stone to even the face. I do store my Japanese water stone in water with a little bit of tincture of green soap to inhibit any microbial growth so it is always ready for use.
Simple Green
WD40
Used Motor Oil
Olive Oil
Vegetable oil
melted Crisco
Specialty honing oils of various flavors/manufacturers
As you can see it's basically dealer's choice... something that will lift and suspend the cut steel is what is important.
NEVER use anything but water on a Japanese water stone, ever... except when cleaning... a tiny amount of mild detergent, and possibly a nagura stone to even the face. I do store my Japanese water stone in water with a little bit of tincture of green soap to inhibit any microbial growth so it is always ready for use.
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pardus
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OK so now you opened the question, Jap water stone vs stone that requires oil etc... Which, why? Pros and cons.
We're getting there.... and the answer is yes. I use Metal based diamond stones for certain applications, but maily stick to oil based stones for sharpening, then Japanese water stones for initial polish, then a bench strop with Aluminum oxide polishing compound for a final polish.... and don't forget the poplar or birch burr reducer....
here is a good site for sharpening stones.... Norton Industrial Abrasives I use a medium/fine (grey 600/orange800) Norton stone in a stand I made. Then take it to a 1000 Japanese water stone and then to a 4000 grit bench strop.
My sharpening gear (less the Japanese water stone and the 1 gal bottle of mineral oil) fits into an average sized daypack - this includes towels, and the Booker's box of assorted tools, ceramic sticks, files, loupe, torx/Phillips/flat drivers, a carbide cutter/sharpener for those fully trashed edges and my Norton stone.
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A good 2 faced stone that would accept water or oil based lifting agents... and yes, I have used military issue bug juice as a lifting agent in the field, or squeezed the oil out of C-Rat or MRE cheese or peanut butter, or used spit, or pond water (my purified water was for me)... the polishing aspect of sharpening is great, but having a knife that's sharp enough for defense or survival is more important. In the field, a 3 sided ceramic stone is good for touch ups or a quick edge polish - but remember, the less stable the sharpening platform the more liable you are to round the edge.
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